Day 21

Skalstugan, Sweden to Adalsvollen, Norway 
Distance: 11.2 miles / 18.0 km
Cumulative: 241.9 miles / 389.2 km

“This wasn’t a strange place. It was a new one.” Paulo Coelho, The Alchemist

We arrived in Sweden June 8. Today we crossed into Norway. 

She’s on the Norwegian side. 

I hate to speak for Kristine, but I think it’s safe to say we have loved both the place and the people. In fact, we loved it enough that we will be going back after we finish our adventure in Trondheim. 

For those paying attention to your ‘stugens, let me explain how we ended last night in Medstugen and started today in Skalstugen. We cheated. Well, not exactly. I mentioned that we had entered the wilderness portion of the trail. Accommodations are few and far between. It’s the far between part that’s important. The walk from Medstugen would have been 20 plus miles with the first long section on the same busy road as yesterday. Our main man Ruben, who made all our reservations, had previously arranged for a pickup and drop off to avoid that asphalt section. We love Ruben. 

The hike today was almost totally along the old King’s road. That king being Charles XIV John, know as Karl XIV Johan in Sweden or Charles III John in Norway. He was actually a French dude and how he became king of the personal union of Sweden and Norway is too long. Just remember the Convention of Moss from yesterday’s lesson. Anyway, he is the guy who, in the early 1800s, had all those bridges built along this road connecting the two countries. We saw more of the bridges today. 

The road had several of these 19th century mile markers. 

The dirt road travels through mountain forests, not as dense as we have been seeing, along rivers and lakes, and up over the mountains.

We topped out around 2200 feet, which is above tree line. That’s not high but remember, we are close to 64 degrees north so the trees like to stay in the valley. 

After a few miles we made it to the border.

The slab in the middle is the border. 

Shortly after we crossed into Norway, we crested the climb and the scenery changed almost immediately. It was more open with large rock outcroppings and streams cutting deeper into land. 

We noted other changes as well. Maybe because St. Olav is the patron saint of Norway, but they have a lot better signage for the trail and many more places to rest and eat, which we took advantage of. 

We also met three more pilgrims, two women from Norway and a younger woman, Merel, from The Netherlands. Seems like the Dutch really like to walk. 

Today was cool and overcast but no rain and little wind. The scenery was spectacular and the road/trail was in excellent condition. Kristine and I agree this was our best day of hiking. 

I was a little concerned when we arrive at our destination. It has a large room with three sets of bunk beds, barracks style. It turns out, however, we are the only ones here tonight so I think I’ll survive. Plus, it’s really well done and they have beer to buy in the refrigerator. (Carlsberg but what are you going to do?)

Tomorrow will be long and the forecast is not good but tonight we are happy.